What is the difference between BPI and Air2 on a BCD?

BCD, Air 2, Scuba equipment

How do I know which BCD is right for me?

Going hoseless or a full-on regulator system, in some cases, the kids or your buddy run out of air. Best for divers who have a regulator with a first stage, the second stage (primary), and the octopus. The octopus is a backup to handoff. In cases, the kids or your buddy run out or are low on air. I recommend this setup for parents diving with kids, or for a Buddy you know is not efficient with air consumption. I also recommend this BCD setup if you are a rescue diver or if you’re a PADI dive pro. For two reasons, really, because it should have a bright yellow hose, easily recognizable to someone needing it, or in a bit of panic, more noticeable, so they do not have to search too hard or accidentally grab your primary.

The Air 2 is the best for easy diving

Also, the octopus is a longer hose, so you do not have that person you’re helping on top of you. The Air2 is great for recreational divers who have no one else to worry about and feel the likelihood of needing it is nil.  I say this because Air2 is a substitute in the event of an out-of-air situation for your primary. So with an Air2. You do not need an additional, long, cumbersome hose (octopus) on your scuba gear. You can streamline and enjoy the first and second stages only on your reg. The Air2 is a regulator attached to the very short hose that has to be bent and curved up into your mouth for you to use, and your primary would then be handed off to the person in need. It’s heavier and less comfortable in your mouth when assisting someone.

The Air2 I feel is best for streamlined ease of diving and can be complemented with the addition of an air integrated computer system, such as the ScubaPro G2 quick release, G2, or Aladin wrist computers that include a small transmitter that attaches to your first stage, eliminating the need for hoses, depth, and air gauges, and even include a digital compass. So you are then practically hoseless, lightweight, and streamlined.

A Hoseless BCD is freeing

I do use the hoseless setup when Tom and I have the rare opportunity to go diving and not be responsible for anyone but each other. It’s very freeing. Having said that, being the avid diver that I am, I have a tendency to be on the more cautious side. Even with that setup, I have a redundant air gauge attached. Tom and I have both experienced short interruptions in the transmitter signal during our dives. Someone’s strobes can cause it, and some cameras with Wi-Fi can, like SeaLife cameras and Ikelite video lights.

Also getting close to other divers with similar devices. I will say, this only lasts an instant and can be resolved by moving a few feet away from the interference. The light and camera interference I have found to be resolved by switching the hands I hold them in and moving the issue-causing device a little further away from the receiver. For example, if your receiver is worn on your left side with the computer on your left wrist, the camera or strobe causing the issue can be held in the right hand.

So make your BCD decision based on your needs, your buddy’s needs, your preferred level of comfort, and your budget. Gauges and BPI are the least expensive options.

I have used Scubapro for 35 years and stand by it for kids and adults. Scubapro recreational BCs generally only need to be serviced once every two years.

My favorite BCDs

My favorite BCDs are the Hydro-BPI, GO-BCD-air 2 for comfort and back support, and the Lighthawk for traveling light. All have integrated weight options;  for younger kids, the Rebel or the Glide X. All Pros, the Hydro Pro comes with two harnesses for pockets or streamlined for simple use with no pockets.

President of Kids Sea Camp & Family Dive Adventures, Margo Peyton, PADI MSDT Elite Instructor, 57474

Toothpaste and new dive mask

Bonaire, Diving with Kids, Tom Peyton

Preparing a new dive mask

The foggy mask: I had a client buy a new dive mask this week, and I told him to make sure to rub toothpaste on both sides of the mask lens before jumping into the water. It will help prevent the lens from fogging up.

He then asked a very simple question, “Why?”

I had no answer for him—I said it was tradition. He then asked, “But why is it the tradition?

I smiled and thought to myself how living with a Hall of Famer who really is a diving professor, Professor Margo of the department of Oceanic Adventures at Kids Sea Camp, makes me a little dumb at times. I have watched Margo put toothpaste in our new dive masks for years — she even puts it in the old ones at the beginning of the summer. And the dumb part  — I never once asked why. Not once did I ask why we are putting something I put on my teeth every day on an item that has no teeth? I just knew that when she didn’t use the toothpaste, my mask would fog up — very quickly — and I hate a foggy mask.

One good thing about myself is that once I realize just how stupid I’m acting or thinking, I tend correct my behavior, and I do this by gathering information. So here’s why my Oceanic Professor puts toothpaste on the lens of our mask almost every year, at the beginning of our diving season— new or not.

Toothpaste is a mild abrasive

Most newer masks, frames, skirts, and straps are made of silicone, which creates a film on the mask’s lens. The film on the lens blocks the defog from working properly. In fact, if the silicone residue is not removed, any amount of defogging work on the lens.

After the toothpaste

After you have cleaned off the toothpaste and you are heading to the boat, make sure to have some defog. There are many brands, and with the silicon residue removed, most of them will work. The fact of the matter is, all the dive boats have some form of defog, though most use a watered-down J&J baby shampoo.

Other forms of defogging

Spit: Real divers don’t use defog; they spend a lot of time draining their mouths, building up a large quantity of saliva, and projecting it into their masks. Many divers say this is the best form of defog, but the idea of my eyes breathing in all the wonderful germs from my mouth — just doesn’t work for me.

SeaDrops: Clean, quick, and easy to use — a few drops on the inside and the outside of the mask has gotten me close to a decade of “no fog” mask. Just remember to wash the drops out right before you jump off the boat. If you don’t clean the drops out of the mask properly, you could experience a severe burning sensation in your eyes — and the eye burn can really ruin a great dive. Why? Because all defog is a form of soap. That’s why most dive boats and shops use J&J Baby Shampoo  — it’s easier on the eyes.

Burn it off: Don’t do this at home unless you know a professional mask burner who has done it many times. You are basically burning off the thin film that protects the new lens. The danger, of course, is burning the entire soft silicone that makes your new mask so darn comfortable.

After the dive

Hit the dunk tank: Make sure you use freshwater to clean off all your dive equipment. Almost all our family of divers dunk their BCs in the sweetwater tub, but I have watched numerous divers forgo a quick rinse of their fins, mask, snorkel, and wetsuit. Remember, a clean mask doesn’t fog up as much, and clean gear lasts longer.

Tom Peyton, Vice President of Kids Sea Camp and Family Dive Adventures