Screws & Hammers in the Galapagos

A few screws and a heap of hammers diving after spinal surgery in the Galapagos

During the summer of 2017, I noticed that my back was curving, and the curve worsened quickly—I started to get shorter! Initially, we thought it would be fine, but as more people commented on my condition, we checked my spine. The diagnosis was severe: I had a 60-degree scoliosis and needed an operation urgently to prevent further deterioration. The procedure involved breaking my back, straightening it, and securing it with two titanium screws in each vertebra, along with two cobalt chrome rods to maintain the alignment. The removed pieces of bone were processed into a pulp and then reinserted as a bone graft to fuse the spine at ten levels. I thought, “Wow, that’s quite the operation!” But I wondered how I could continue diving with a fragile back like this.

Thanks to the incredible team at Boston Children’s Hospital, I successfully underwent a ten-hour surgery. During my post-operative visit, Dr. Hresko reassured me, saying, “You’re not fragile, Zeb—you are screwed together with titanium!” At that moment, I felt confident that I could dive again.

As a regular participant in Kids Sea Camp, Margo Peyton was the most natural person to consult. She has taken numerous children and adults with special needs diving, so I was sure she would have a plan! Margo herself had undergone back surgery but was still an outstanding diver, so I knew I was in good hands. She assured me that diving was still possible and implemented a few special handling instructions for my situation, which was highly beneficial (she’s always right!).

First, my dad suggested that I learn to dive sidemount to alleviate some of the pressure on the center of my spine. Honestly, I think he was also interested in advancing his diving skills into a more technical area! Margo arranged for my dad and I to go to Grand Cayman to take a PADI sidemount course with DiveTech. Although it felt unusual to dive this way, and while it was interesting, I found the extra hassle of managing two tanks to be cumbersome. I appreciated learning the technique but wanted to feel normal again.

Once I was comfortable with sidemount diving, we decided to book a trip to the Galapagos. Margo got the necessary approvals—this was essential since sidemount diving had been banned on the liveaboards. She communicated with the crew and management of Galapagos Sky, who were incredibly accommodating and made a notable exception for me. As the trip approached, I felt my back getting stronger, and I resumed my workouts at the gym. I reached a point where I was ready to try regular diving again. After a brief dive using a standard tank close to home, I was ecstatic to discover how magical it felt to be underwater again, experiencing it as I had in the past without the anxiety of navigating different systems.

We were all set for the Galapagos, and I was thrilled to dive using a regular central cylinder. The crew of the Galapagos Sky catered to all my needs. Margo chartered the entire boat for my family and three others, which allowed her to customize everything for my success. We selected our dive sites, received assistance for easier entry and exit, and had our private guides. I appreciated that the staff noticed my significant scar down my back; it was humbling for me—a fit young man with a six-pack—to have to ask for help. The crew helped me step down into the Panga without my gear, then passed my equipment to me and assisted in getting me ready. This arrangement meant I didn’t have to carry my gear or navigate steps while suited up. After a short ride to the dive site, everyone else back-rolled into the water, while I side-rolled to minimize stress on my back.

And wow, was it worth it! The underwater life was beyond amazing. We encountered schools of hammerhead sharks on every dive—there were so many that at times I wanted to say, “Seriously, I can’t see that turtle through the wall of hammerheads; could you move aside a bit?” Then there were the majestic whale sharks, gracefully gliding through the water without a sound; these gentle giants seemed just as curious about us as we were about them. I also had the incredible experience of diving with large oceanic wild dolphins. Although I had seen them playing at the surface many times, I had never had the opportunity to swim underwater with them while diving.  

One of my all-time favorites were the seals. They appear so “clumsy” on land but are full of grace, fun, and frolicking underwater. They loved to play in my bubbles, do tricks around us, sneak up on us, and even try to get us to join in the fun. We also encountered marine iguanas, red-lipped batfish, huge bait balls of fish, and an astonishing variety of birds. There was a sense of peace every evening as we moored overlooking Darwin’s Arch and the surrounding islands. The orange glow of volcanoes on the horizon, the gentle lapping of the waves, and the delightful aroma of meals prepared by the crew created a wonderful atmosphere. There were so many photos to take and experiences to cherish. Sharks were plentiful and abundant; Galapagos sharks, silkies, hammerheads, and other reef sharks were present on every dive.

As Margo always said, “The experience of a lifetime.” I feel so fortunate to have had this opportunity, thanks to the collaboration of Margo Peyton, the owner of Kids Sea Camp, Fraser Purdon from Scubapro, my parents, and many others who worked together to ensure my safety during this trip. I am incredibly thankful to all of you for making this experience possible.

If anyone has similar experiences or concerns, please get in touch with me. Scoliosis is surprisingly common, and I’m happy to help. You can check out my website, www.zebwakely.com, where I share many of my underwater photos, or contact me through Kids Sea Camp, www.kidsseacamp.com. Kids Sea Camp is a wonderful place where families of all abilities and disabilities can dive together. I love them so much!

By Zebedee Wakely, Kids Sea Camp, PADI Master Diver